No. They need floor space, both length and width so they can have some turn-around room and though you CAN house 2 females together, it's best that you don't as despite their appearance in stores and that they seem to attach to their owners, mine tend to be quite hostile with each other (if using a tank, a 40G breeder seems better, in my experience, than a 50G standard). So, unless you're doing a breeding project as I am, 1 beardie is plenty. Also, the tank needs a gradient of 90's on hot side and about 80 on the cool side (farenheit), with uvb and a hot spot (the surface of the physical spot they bask on) of about 100, whether baby, juvenile or adult. Care is the same throughout, except as both of mine have gotten older, they seem more interested in greens than meat. And also, don't think the 20 crickets a day this site's ad says is enough - they eat like pubescent teenagers as babies and that 20 crickets is per feeding, 3 times a day, dusted every other day (meaning all meals on dust days are dusted and all meals on bare days are not). I had switched to hatchling dubia roaches after trying to begin a cricket colony in the beginning; they stink and make a lot of noise, and those roaches just die if any DO get out, which is next to impossible if the bin is set up right (all of 20 bucks for a proper bin setup for bulk food holding), and the roaches have higher meat content so they actually eat less, and though not as fast as crickets they do give the beardies some exercise for the chase. I use calcium and vitamin d3 supplments for dusting. Best bet for a proper cage is to actually build one; I have 2 beardies, and both are active as sam hill now that I upgraded from the 40G breeders to the ones I built at 4'x4' each (used plywood and 2x2's and triple-polyurethaned the inside with all attachment hardware on the outside to avoid potential injuries, and a double-wood-edged screen top). Note that "active" is relative; they do get up and move more, but still spend much of their day basking on their spots. They also do need the air flow that this cage represented offers; just drill holes in the sides once the one I'm describing is built. 10G tanks are fine as babies, though I upgraded to 20G tanks in 2 months then the 40G's after about a total of 5 months; I think had I known the growth rate, I would have bought the 20G's off the start and used only 1 tank in the beginning, split in half by a divider and having the 2nd tank ready for the upgrade to intermediate housing followed by going straight to the custom-built tanks, then I would have needed only 1 UVB fixture and only 2 basking lights while they were hatchlings (much cheaper), with something for them to climb to the elevated hot spots (note a 20G is taller so the heat is harder to penetrate to the spot) since they both love to climb small distances. Both seem to like being close to the floor in these new tanks I built and have gotten accustomed rather quickly to people being larger than them as well, as we walk past the ranges frequently daily, but they also have been frequently handled throughout their lives so that might be a factor in their comfort levels. Lots of info, but really a simple setup once its done. Hope this helped.
answered 1 year, 11 months ago
Fort Wayne, IN
4out of 4found this answer helpful.
Beardies need horizontal space, not vertical space.
You need a glass 40 - 50 gallon tank for a beardie.
answered 2 years, 10 months ago
3out of 3found this answer helpful.
No, this tank has a lot of vertical space. Beardies need horizontal space. Furthermore, beardies need a hot and cool side, something this tank can't give. A full grown beardie would not be able to move in this.
You need a 40 - 50 gallon glass tank.
answered 2 years, 10 months ago
5out of 5found this answer helpful.
answered 2 years, 11 months ago
Salt Lake City, Utah
2out of 20found this answer helpful.